10/31/2010 10:26 AM
The Cheese of Fall
When chilly mornings signal that autumn is truly here, the cheese that calls to me is Old Kentucky Tomme.
Buttery and rich, with wild, mushroomy overtones it's a comfort cheese simply made for the season. Whether we serve it solo or in a gratinee, it's a great pairing with soft, red wines--Zins and Cote du Rhones, but it's especially happy with a great beer like Oktoberfest from Goose Island Brewery
When we first began making Old Kentucky 20 years ago, we wanted an aged goat cheese to absorb the flush of our spring milk and one that would also hold through the winter when milk supply dwindled. Like all beginning goat dairies, we never seemed to have enough milk during the fall and winter months. We also wanted a cheese with truly American roots, and nothing seemed more American, or delicious, than Ig Vella's high moisture, Monterey Jacks. At its base Old Kentucky is all the things we love in a good Jack (and I love a good Jack!) but then it changes dramatically with aging and rinding as it develops additional layers of cellar flavors and a slight lipase "kick" at the finish. There is nothing not to like.